Life in Phana

Back to Phana... again

Here we are back in Phana, far from the floods that are ravaging much of Thailand. We have been here a week now, but our broadband connection was only restored yesterday, so this is my first post in some time.

Our journey from Bangkok was uneventful although the train to Ubon was diverted via Chachoengsao, and the journey time was two hours longer than usual. Warin Chamrap, where the train arrives, on the south side of the Moon River, was quite flooded, with the two large lakes overflowing and people who had had to evacuate their homes living in makeshift shelters along the main road to Ubon.

Arriving on the outskirts of Phana, the fields were full of rice and it looked as if here, at least, there is a good harvest in prospect.

At home in Phana we found  the garden hedge in full bloom and  attracting large butterflies:

We had heard that some of the sandy paths in Don Chao Poo Forest had been 'improved' and we were somewhat fearful that this meant more concrete. It wasn't as bad as that, and perhaps is not so bad at all. Certainly if these new paths encourage people to explore the forest a bit more that might be a good thing.

 

The paths lead to the four Buddha images that have been in the forest for the last 30 or so years.

The monkeys seem to have adopted the paths. Whenever they spend time on the ground, they seem to prefer to spend most of it on the roadways and now on these paths. They eat ants and termites and it may be easier for them to spot these and pick them up from the hard surfaces.

There are still some very pleasant, sandy paths, shaded by the tall canopies of the yang trees. This one leads off one of the concrete roads. I took the picture early on my first morning back in Phana, with the sun just beginning to break through.

It made the perfect welcome back to Phana.

Thai Monkey Forest

The Thai Monkey Forest on the outskirts of Ban Phana is more correctly known as Don Chao Poo Forest Park. I blogged about it several times back in April this year and since leaving Phana to return home to England for the summer I have been working on something we are calling the Phana Macaque Project.

The Phana Macaque Project (PMP) has been set up in response to what we see as a need to ensure that the long-tailed macaques in our forest are looked after in a way that protects and benefits them while also providing a rewarding experience for visitors who come to see them and maintaining and improving the relationship between the monkeys and the residents of Phana. 

To record the progress we have made to date, and to make information available to anyone interested in Thai monkeys and our Thai Monkey Forest, a blog / website has been set up HERE and I have added a link to this site on my BLOG ROLL. Posts to the site will appear on Thailand Voice. I hope you will take the time to visit and that you will find what we are doing in Phana for the long-tailed macaques interesting. As always your comments and suggestion will be much appreciated.

Visit Phana

VISIT PHANA was the theme of the community-based tourism that was on the agenda of the Amnat Charoen Provincial authorities earlier this year. Nothing much seems to have come of it so far, at least as far as the Provincial initiative goes. That may in part be due to the change in government. Not because a change in government necessarily results in the abandonment of all previous policies, but because budget allocations inevitably have to be looked at again in order to reassess priorities.

But in Phana itself some progress was made towards planning for community-based tourism. Perhaps it has taken a new direction, or at least a somehwat unexpected one, in that Don Chao Poo and the resident monkeys have become the focus; and the focus has been narrowed down further to the educational possibilities that they offer.

Another step towards community-based tourism in Phana has been the production of several leaflets, in English initially, but to be translated into Thai and possibly into Japanese.

Here is the content of the first leaflet.

VISIT PHANA 

THE TOWN OF FIELDS IN THE FOREST

Visit Phana and uncover the secrets of this little-known but historic and surprising town in the heart of Isan.

Phana just may be the best place you have never heard of!

Phana is famous for Phra Lao Thepnimit, the beautiful image in a 300-year-old temple: come and pay your respects.

 

Phana is famous, too, for the large tribe of long-tailed macaque monkeys in Don Chao Poo forest – come and feed them, or just sit and watch them.

 

But visit Phana and you can discover much more

Visit during one of the festivals – there is one every month, but the most lively is the Wat Phra Lao festival in February. Join the festivities at the temple. Take part in the bicycle rally around the town …

Come for the rocket festival in May. You can see the young women of Phana competing in traditional dancing as well as watch the firing of huge rockets.

Or Boun Pravet in March when the story of Buddha’s penultimate life is paraded on a banner and read in 13 chapters in a temple.

Or celebrate Loy Kratong at the big pond in Don Kwan village in November.

Visit on market days – Wednesday and Saturday mornings – but you must be up early as most of the action is between 6.30 and 8.00 a.m. The market meets again on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons from about 4 – 6 p.m.

Come to Phana and eat gai yaang with som tam and sticky rice, or duck noodle soup, Korean BBQ perhaps.

Or a local speciality: Jao Hawn.

 

Visit the Traditional Medicine Centre for a massage or a sauna – or spoil yourself and have both!

Ask to see how traditional herbal  medicines are produced — and then buy some to ensure your health and comfort.

 

Hire a bicycle to visit the nearby villages. Watch weavers at work at their looms or dying thread; take a tuk-tuk to Ban Soi in Tambon  Chan Lan and see the complete process of silk production from mulberry leaf and silkworm raising to the finished cloth.

Take a picnic to Fai Rong Hin (the Model Agricultural Centre) in Tambon Phra Lao. Enjoy the quiet serenity and take a look at the livestock and find out how farmers are advised to adopt a more self-sufficient and sustainable style of farming.

 

Don’t forget to take a look at those fields in the forest.

 

 

Phana Garden Resort is waiting to welcome you.

Get to Phana by bus from Amnat Charoen or Ubon Ratchathani. Or take the a/c coach service from Bangkok to Khong Jiam.

But don't forget your destination:

Phana

Come on!

Surprise yourself

with an unforgettable visit.

Phana Macaque Project

 

 
The Phana Macaque Project is taking a lot of my time at the moment. I'm not complaining because I am enjoying the contacts we have made so far and it does look as if people in various parts of the world are interested in coming to study our long-tailed macaques. We have interest so far from academics and students in Thailand, England, Japan and the USA.

One way we have promoted the project can be seen if you click on the link below: 

 

Download Phana macaque project

You may have to be a little patient. It will open in Adobe Reader.

I previously posted about the project HERE and you can find other posts in the category 'long-tailed macaques'.

 

Who are you calling an ape?

Apes? Who gives a monkey's? Well, I do, for one.

The Tetsaban Phana website www.phanacity.com has this artist's impression of the planned study centre to be built in Don Chao Poo.  It looks good to me, but I am much less keen on an alternative design that features a large disney-like structure. We are hoping that the centre will be an educational resource as well as a fun place to visit. There is no reason to think that education and fun are mutually exclusive (though years spent in school might suggest that they are).

 

What worries me a little is that the series of pictures and drawings begin with the title "APE MUSEUM". Our monkeys are NOT apes. Apes have no tails. Ours have LONG tails. They are long-tailed macaques. I think everyone is agreed that the centre will contain exhibitions relating to monkeys other than macaques, and that will include apes. But while all apes are monkeys, not all monkeys are apes. 

Just before we left Thailand last month, Pensri and I visited Thailand's leading expert on primates, Professor Dr Suchinda Malaivijitnond, director of the Primate Research Centre at Chulalongkorn University. She had lots of good advice for us, and has agreed to take further part in the project to set up the centre. We mentioned to her that the Governor of Amnat Charoen felt that 'Primate' was not a word widely understood (hence the need for a study centre, in part) so he has suggested 'Ape' instead. Dr Suchinda agreed, but said that the best alternative to 'primate' would be 'monkey'. There is no problem with the Thai title, because as you can see above, it would translate as 'Monkey Museum'. So PLEASE, TETSABAN PHANA:  use the English word 'monkey' for the sake of accuracy.

Another academic, the first we got on board, is Dr Panee Wannitikul of Suranaree University of Technology, Korat. She suggested the name 'Centre for Monkey and Environment Studies'. She pointed out that in a conserved forest there will be plenty of other species (bird, amphibian, insect, plant, fish ...) that make this name appropriate and hopefully of interest to students of schools and universities.

Next week we have an appointment to see Dr Stephen Lea, Professor of Psychology at Exeter University. He specialises in animal behavior / animal social behaviour. His students study monkeys at a local zoo. We're hoping he can point us in the direction of useful audio-visual resources for exhibition. And we are hoping we can point him in the direction of some non-zoo monkeys in Phana. 

 

Chakri Day Action in Phana

Last week was a busy week of blogging for me. But my blogs last week had very positive responses and outcomes. I am always aware that people at the tetsaban read my blog, and they are always very helpful in providing me with information, and with photos when I need them. I am generally in favour of their initiatives and feel positively about their contribution to life in Phana (as it is lived, not just the blog). Although I am not their mouthpiece, I felt somewhat apprehensive about being critical about what was happening in Don Chao Poo forest with regard to the litter problem and the monkeys.

It seems that I needn't have worried. The response from the tetsaban and from lots of other people in Phana has been very positive. Pensri attended a meeting at the tetsaban on Thursday and distributed copies of a village development plan that was drawn up 46 years ago by her father and a noted abbot in Ubon (born in Phana). Half of this plan was to establish Don Chao Poo as a conservation area encompassing Buddhism, wildlife, traditional medicine and so on. The other half of the plan was to foster village unity through communal days on which the village would be cleaned, roads gradually  improved, ponds dug and so on. Over the years the idea of communal village/town action has diminished in importance as the tetsaban has taken over responsibility for many of these areas of life.

Nevertheless, the meeting, which involved all the village heads, kamnan, councillors and community representatives, agreed to revive the plan and to revise it as necessary. And action was immediate! The following Wednesday, Chakri Day, 6th April was declared a 'community action day' with the emphasis on cleaning up houses and streets. And it worked. People came out of their houses, got together and cleaned up. The mayor, in a cowboy hat (don't ask me why) drove an ice-cream motor-bike contraption around and gave free ice-cream to people out working. Good thinking; he's a real politician. I didn't get any pictures of most of the communal action because I was with Pensri and a gang of a few other adults and some young people in Don Chao Poo. The tetsaban sent a truck to take away our bin bags of rubbish and in the afternoon succumbed to our pleas for more active help. I think 95% of the task has now been completed.

Another turn for the better appeared on Friday. One of the English teachers at Phana Suksa came round to invite us to a meal with him and his colleagues on the Saturday, to celebrate his promotion to a higher grade. We weren't able to accept because we were going to Ubon for the wedding of one of our former volunteers to a young Thai man. But the teacher, Mr Prakong, came with us for alitter-picking session in Don Chao Poo, and afterwards he said that when the new school year began he would arrange for a group of students to pick litter there on a weekly basis as part of the new 'Community Involvement' section of the curriculum. A lucky break that augurs well.

Here is one section of our gang from yesterday:

 

The two girls were brilliant. They came out and worked with us on 5 days, so they deserve a bit of a close-up, I think. They used to come round to the house and learn English when they were at primary school, but they will be in M3 next year, สาวแล้ว, as they say, so they don't do that any more. But it was very nice to see them again, they are two lovely Phana girls.

For some the day's work was just a walk in the park ... or was it a walk on the wild side?

Whatever, at the end of the day it's just nice to put your feet up.

Which is precisely what I was glad to do after 7 days in the forest, helping to collect more than 100 bin bags full of rubbish.

What should we do about the monkeys?

What should we do about the monkeys? In Phana, at least, we have to continue down the road we have been going for the last thirty years or so. There can be no turning back, I'm afraid. But after posting about our long-tailed macaques all this week, I feel I must sum up what it is that we have done. I have already written a lot about them, so I'll try to keep this brief.

By feeding the colony that lives in Don Chao Poo, we have:

• protected them from farmers and others who might have killed them in order to defend their crops and property
• limited their 'ranging'
• prolonged their lives, resulting in population growth and a diminishing share of their natural habitat and food supply
• made them become lazy and greedy
• made them become familiar with humans, unafraid of them, and sometimes aggressive towards them
• introduced them to inappropriate foods.

In effect, we have domesticated them.

On the other hand, if we had fired catapaults at them and had not fed them, they would have lived a more natural life. They would have remained the 'wild' creatures we imagine want them to be.

But we would have been denied the feel-good factor.

I hope that if Phana succeeds in its current aim to set up some sort of educational centre in or near Don Chao Poo, we will learn how to treat our monkeys better and begin to see them for themselves and not merely as a means of making ourselves feel good.

 

A Breakaway Colony of Long-Tailed Macaques in Phana

On the Phana ring-road there is a small colony of long-tailed macaque monkeys. It isn't clear how they got there, several kms from Don Chao Poo forest. One explanation is that when a truck-load of monkeys was stolen from the forest and some of them were rescued by the police, they were left here. I am not sure how credible that is, seeing that the forest is nearby, and the police were local and knew exactly where the monkeys had come from. You can read about this HERE.  A breakaway colony seems more likely. Certainly they would not have been imported here by the farmer who now has them as neighbours.

I have been cycling past the spot where this colony lives for some time now. The large vinyl poster on the left was for some time the only way I had of knowing there were monkeys here. They are very shy, unlike the ones in Don Chao Poo.  One morning, about a week after this became my preferred route, there were 15 of them lined up along the bridge as if they were waiting for me to sail past. It was as if a meeting had been called so that they could all see the farang. They just watched me, didn't ask for anything, didn't ask me where I was going or where I came from. Nice.

 

I've never seen that many since then, usually just two or three of them playing in the trees, or sitting by the roadside.

 

There are two reasons why they are so shy. The first is because of the large vinyl notice. There are two of these, one either side of the road, either side of the bridge.

The notice tells people NOT TO FEED the monkeys here.

 

 

The second reason is this: I found it next to the farmer's field hut. A bag of stones, all about the same size. Pretty deadly, I imagine, when fired from a catapault. The farmer naturally does not want his crops eaten or destroyed by marauding monkeys.

 

And I am fairly sure that the monkeys learn quite quickly that the farmer won't hesitate to fire at them. In the same way, they seem to have learnt that people are not going to feed them, even if they stop at the bridge as I sometimes do.

So we have two colonies of long-tailed macaques in Phana. The large colony lives in a forest and receives much of its food from the tetsaban and from passing tourists. That is what they have come to expect. And that is what they have come to depend on. In some cases it is what they have come to demand and to fight over.

The other, smaller, colony is living a much more natural life. It fears human contact and so avoids it. It finds food in the trees, water in the small river that flows under the bridge. On the other hand, the monkeys do range in search of food, and no doubt they are a nuisance to nearby farmers, who can't always be on guard to defend their crops.

Two colonies; two solutions. In tomorrow's post I'll consider the two solutions alongside each other and try to weigh the pros and cons of each.

 

 

 

 

 

Why do we love them so?

Phana is sometimes known as 'Monkey Town'. I am not sure that the people of Phana really like that, but I notice that there is a large, framed collage of photos labelled MONKEY TOWN just outside the Mayor's office at Tetsaban Phana. Certainly the monkeys that live in our local forest are a big draw for tourists. What is less certain is whether or not Phana gains anything from this tourism. We gain litter, yes, as my previous post pointed out,  but that may be all other than a certain notoriety. But I wonder whether Phana needs to gain anything, at least in the sense of profiting from the presence of the monkeys.

The monkeys do make us feel good, somehow. Phana lives quite comfortably with them (give or take a few complaints from farmers whose land adjoins the forest). It has generally been regarded as auspicious that the monkeys live in Don Chao Poo, home to the town's guardian spirit, and to four Buddha images. Somehow people feel privileged to be host to the monkeys. The people who come from outside to feed them evidently feel good about doing so, even if some of the girls scream when large monkeys make a grab for food they are holding. 

Why do we love them so? 

They make us feel at one with nature, I think. We are consorting with 'the wild things' when we go into the forest to feed them.

Feeding them makes us feel kind and generous.

Feeding these monkeys makes us forget that we have exterminated most of the wild things around here. 

 

 

 

At the same time, we see these long-tailed macaques as very human-like:

the babies are cute, the mothers take good care of them;

the young males respect the older males, the older males look wise and are very macho.

 

This may be the world as we would like it to be.

 

It is time for Phana to re-think its relationship with the monkeys here. The Governor of Amnat Charoen Province has suggested (with a little prodding, perhaps) that some sort of 'Centre' should be established in connection with them. Selling souvenirs may have been the extent of his thinking on the subject. But several people have put forward the idea of a Study Centre and contact has been made with an academic at a university in Isan who is interested in the study of primates and their place in the ecosystem. First, though, we must decide exactly what sort of relationship we want to have with the monkeys, and what sort of habitat we are willing to allow them.

COMMENTS and SUGGESTIONS would be very much appreciated.

A Litter Anecdote

While collecting litter in Don Chao Poo forest last Friday, Pensri's friend told us a little story:

'When my children were young (they are now adult and parents themselves) I used to take them to the forest early in the morning to gather mushrooms. When we found some I would say, "Hush, keep your voices down. If people know we have found mushrooms they will come in and join us and we won't get very many." Now we are collecting litter and we call out loudly to everybody who passes, but nobody comes to pick up litter with us!'

Other times, other ways.