Thai Life in Phana

Preparing for retreat in Don Chao Poo

Every year Don Chao Poo forest in Phana is taken over by hundreds of monks, novices and men and women in white who have undertaken to join them for 10 days of meditation and Buddhist teachings. The people of Phana undertake to feed them every day from 21st December to 30th December. Different villages take it in turns to do this, though other people are welcome to join them on any day. Some people go to the forest every day to offer food as the long line of monks go on the morning bindabat, or alms round.

The opening ceremony, which is not attended by the monks, will take place in the forest tomorrow morning. But for the last few days people have been preparing the forest.

Boys and girls from Udomwitayakorn Primary School near the forest have been working hard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lot of their work has been sweeping leaves from the main entrance to the forest and collecting some of the rubbish that litters the area.

The big problem is plastic bags. People bring food for the monkeys in plastic bags and although some of the bags get put into rubbish bins, the wind and the monkeys often take them out again. Some of the monkeys also have the habit of snatching bags of food and making off into the forest with it, so bags can be found all over the place. The problem of plastic bags here needs to be looked at and something done about it. Not that there is an easy solution but I'm sure it could be alleviated.

Anyway, at least once a year something gets done and this young lad seems to be enjoying himself even if he isn't working as hard as the other boys. I wonder how he got into this priviliged position. My guess is he knows somebody.

Outside the forest, this tetsaban employee is delivering flags to line the front wall of the forest.

Leaving my car inside the forest while I went off to take photos was a big mistake.

If the schoolboys were working hard, this was playtime for the forest residents.

 

I went back to the forest today, Sunday. The monks arrive today and the tetsaban had arranged a reception counter for them.

Most of the monks have attended this annual retreat before and they knew their way around the forest. All the same, someone was on hand to greet them and help them with their camping equipment. Some of them came with a glot, the tent which looks like an umbrella when it is rolled up. This is the one which tudong monks use when they are on their travels. I couldn't get a photo of one today because monks were changing their robes at each of the ones I found.

 

Many monks are into camping equipment of a more recognisable form.

A kitchen was set up near the reception area.

It looks as if a cup of tea will soon be served. These monks will only eat once a day during the 10-day retreat but tea without milk is allowable at any time, as is water, of course.

There are several of these water tanks in the forest and part of the preparations has been to clean them out.

The most important area is this one where the monks and other meditators will sit. Straw has been laid on the ground beneath the trees and there are piles of straw in several places so  that it can be renewed when necessary.

The monks also practise walking meditation along the shady paths of the forest.
 
 

I will be returning to the forest tomorrow morning because Moo 1 where I live is the main sponsor for offering food on the first day. Because it is the first day, though, there will be hundreds of people waiting to offer food to the monks. Then I will go back on other days to see how things are going. So I hope to post again about this meditation retreat later in the week.

 
 

 

Recycling Day in Phana, Thailand

Recycling Day was a big success in Phana. As usual just about everyone in Tambon Phana was involved, either as a participant or a spectator. The competition for the moo baan with the best costumes and float drew some interesting entries from all the little communities that make up Tetsaban Tambon Phana.

This carefully-crafted hat made from recycled materials seems to epitomise the committment the people of Phana show when they are asked to put on a show like this.

The parade started in the amphur, at Samarkee School. They started marching at about 3.15 pm and reached the bridge just down from our house at about 3.30. As always they were led by two beautiful young women, in this case the two volunteers from Project Trust.

Samarkee School students were near the head of the parade:

The marchers came in all shapes and sizes:

The women of Phana always enjoy a parade and don't seem to mind making a bit of an exhibition of themselves.

 

These men enjoyed themselves too:

This was a day of many worthy slogans.

 

This one was contributed by Pensri and I to the Moo 1 (our community) section of the parade. I don't know how or why the hyphen jumped out of place.

 

This band comes from Samarkee School which has a great tradition of music and dancing.

 

This marching band performs at every occasion imaginable in Phana. They also spend a lot of time practising in the evenings and can be heard a long way off.

 

I love this section of the band, both for the ingenuity of the mobile, battery-powered amps and for the sound that comes out.

 

Here comes the mayor! On the right.

 

The decoration of the floats was fairly predictable but colourful anyway.

 

 

And after the parade comes the Tetsaban's waste-collection truck. Is it about to be made redundant by all this recycling?

 

When I caught up with the stationary parade at the market place I realised that I had contributed these Beer Lao and San Miguel cans. A young woman we know takes them from me and turns them into these attractive decorations.

This is the recycling stall. People brought bags and sacks full of stuff, all sorted. It was weighed and exchanged for an appropriate reward. There were eggs, for example, and kids could get sticker books or soft drinks.

I saw our friend who recently hosted a harvest celebration at her farm. She was having a foot massage and I decided to join her. Unfortunately, you paid for the massage with a ticket obtained by exchanging a sackful of rubbish at the stall. So the massage women were contributing their work to the cause. Well, I didn't have any rubbish with me to exchange so I'm afraid I used a bit of influence. The deputy-mayor's wife somehow acquired a ticket for me, I don't know how because she didn't have any rubbish either. Well, this is Thailand.

Somebody mistakenly thought I would make a good photograph so I asked her to take one with my camera too.

 

This foot massage business takes a lot of concentration. It is excellent anyway, and I have booked the same woman to come and give me another massage tomorrow afternoon. I'll have to pay for that one, though.

 

When they didn't have enough customers (rarely, in fact) the massage women gave each other a massage.

 

Then the on-stage performances began and that is how I ended recycling day in Phana. Very satisfying. Oh, the tetsban also provided everyone with some sticky rice and pork in a banana leaf. Packed in with the food there was also a tiny bit of banana leaf wrapped around some nam prik. Very thoughtful. And delicious.

 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

  

 

Tetsaban Phana Talks Rubbish Every Day

For the last couple of weeks there has only been one topic coming over the loudspeakers of my moo ban at 6.30 am and in more detail over the tetsaban speakers at 8.05 am. RUBBISH!

Following the final assessment day which I blogged about on 10 October (Community Projects in Phana) members of the tetsaban went to the ESCAP building (UN Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific) in Bangkok to receive their award. One of the assessors, a Dr Paiboon, is also involved in a project to do with waste management and waste reduction and he was impressed by the work being done in Phana to do with recycling waste and producing fertilizer. So now Phana is the pilot project for Dr Paiboon's scheme.

Curently we are in phase 1 which has involved each moo ban holding meetings with residents to discuss what needs to be done to reduce waste. An early outcome was the decision to recycle plastic bags by washing them and re-using them. What I notice is that every household now has a bunch of clean, used plastic bags pegged up in a prominently visible place. But the bunch doesn't grow and it doesn't shrink. It seems to be just making the statement that the household has done its bit. Unless you are selling something you don't really need to use plastic bags. I suppose at some point (phase x?) someone will come around and pay a small amount for our plastic bag collections, as they already do for old newspapers, beer bottles and cans and cardboard.

I may have mentioned before that when we came back in September we found that the tetsaban had replaced the large wheelie bins they previously supplied with two very small bins, one black and one green. No need to explain the difference. But why so small? Well, it seems that Dr Paiboon or someone whose research he is familiar with, has discovered that the bigger the bin, the more rubbish is disposed of. And the second discovery is that if you leave bins in the road, a lot of litter accumulates around them. Dogs? Cats? Other creatures? The wind (from China)? It does seem to be true. But Phana was already one of the cleanest places I've ever been (outside Austria). Anyway, we no longer leave bins permanently in the road, but put them out each night for very early morning collection. Lucky the bins are smaller, in fact.

December 4, the eve of the King's birthday, is going to be an environmentally clean and friendly day throughout Thailand, I believe. Here we are going to have a parade with the theme of "NO BINS". Difficult to imagine that there will be much to it other than people walking around without any bins, which is what we all do every day. But I will be proved wrong, because when it comes to parades, Phana excels itself and comes up with a seemingly endless variety of costumes etc. as well as the obligatory beautiful young women leading the procession. I've nothing against that, even if the young women did have to get up at 4 am to have their hair and make-up done.

Just last night there was the sound of strange beating coming from Moo 8. It wasn't the usual sound of drum beats so I can only assume that it was the sound of bins being beaten.

December 4 will also mark the beginning of Phase 2 of the project, so expect an update, as well as photos of the parade.

Meanwhile, here are some photos of the presentation made to Tetsaban Phana in Bangkok. I wasn't there, so thanks to the tetsaban for the pictures.

This was the occasion. KPI stands for King Prajadhipok's Institute. 

 

These were the sponsors:

 

The mayor of Tetsaban Phana, Khun Phachoenlab Intarachan, receives the trophy:

 

And here he proudly holds the trophy and the citation outside the building:

 

 

 

Happy Returns to Phana

I got back to Phana yesterday from my trip to Malaysia and a few days in Bangkok. I had only been away ten days so unsurprisingly nothing had really changed. The harvest is just about completed so the fields have changed colour quite dramatically. And the weather has changed again. When I left it had got unseasonably hot again after a very brief cold spell. But when I got here at about mid-day it was immediately apparent that the cold weather was back. And by bed-time I was closing all the windows and searching for more blankets.

 

When I got back to Phana in September after six months away, there had been more significant changes so I went around taking photos. The new market and bus station was well on the way to completion, now scheduled for a December opening.

 

 

 

A private building project that had been completed was the new 'resort' just outside town. It looks very nice and has a restaurant with several items listed that I really like but can not get in Phana. Tod mun kung, for eaxample. The waitress said they had that every day so I ordered some. Not today, I was told about 15 minutes later. On my next (and probably last) visit, exactly the same thing happened. All that glitters ...

 

I'm not expecting Phana to become a major tourist destination, however. When I asked how much the bungalows were, I was quoted two prices, one for three hours and one for the night. So I guess they are not exactly aiming at too many long-term visitors. But they do quite a good trade in karaoke, even at lunch time.

The most mysterious change was to the course of the Huay Phra Lao. Upstream from the bridge the banks had been cleared and the stream revealed to be divided, whether around a small island or not I haven't been able to find out yet. The view is certainly improved and it looks as if a riverside walk is planned. Previously the stream only seemed to come from the top right of this picture. 

 

Back in 1982 I swam upstream of the bridge with our kids and some relatives. I can't imagine anyone doing that now, though doubtless it is no less wholesome than it was then and I don't remember anyone getting ill or anything. A little child nearly got swept away but wouldn't have got far because the bridge was just being built then and there was lots of bamboo scaffolding in the river forming a kind of porous dam. I think the present bridge is a newer one.

 

Downstream nothing has changed. A lot of fishing goes on at the weir, usually.

 

Who said Isan is a desert? Not here, it isn't. The Huay Phra Lao divides the old town of Ban Phana from the new town, the amphur. A few kilometres downstream it joins the larger Se Bok, which in turn flows into the Mae Nam Mun east of Ubon. The Mun in turn flows into the Mekong at Khong Chiam, and then it's all the way to the sea through Cambodia and Vietnam.

People thought I would be interested in the new machines set up around the old market place in Ban Phana and along the road where the tetsaban offices are in the amphur. But believe me, despite their lurid colours, taking these photos is the nearest I am likely to get to these things. Other people find them amusing, though, especially round about dusk. Not at the moment, perhaps. Too cold.

 

Close up they are even more off-putting.

 

More to my taste are these new kuti in Wat Phra Lao:

 

So Phana changes, but so far it still looks very nice, I think, and I can't imagine not being glad to get back here. So, many more happy returns, I hope.
 
 
 

 

Professional mor lam in Phana

This is a professional mor lam performance. On the occasion I saw them in Phana only the woman sang, accompanied by the khaen player. To be honest the other man did not do a lot. He hardly danced and he didn't sing. It is possible he was just having a sulk. I can't believe he was only there for ornamental reasons. Sentimental, perhaps.

This was the finale of the Tetsaban Phana  celebration for Tod Kathin last month. One of the things I find most peculiar in Phana (and maybe that could read 'in Thailand') is that by the time the headline act comes on, everyone has gone home! I think no more than a dozen of us were here to listen to this group. And that was a pity because they were realyy pretty good. Earlier the audience had been huge because so many kids and old folk were performing, so all their friends and relatives (ie. everyone in Phana) was there to support them and take pride in them or have a good laugh at their expense.

So what the Tetsaban should have done (are you reading this down at the tetsaban offices?) was to put the professionals on early and give the youngsters a good model. (How come I always know best, in hindsight at least?)

Anyway, they were good. Here they are, and thanks to the Tetsaban for finding them.

 

 

OK, I take it back. He did dance a bit.

And here is me filming them. Not elegantly posed perhaps. But you see what I mean about the sparse audience?

 

 

Young Mor Lam Singers

These two young mor lam singers appeared twice in Phana recently. They are just 9 years old but already have real stage presence and their memory for the words of the songs was very impressive.

I saw them first at a tam boun baan, where I recorded them. Then they appeared at the tetsaban's entertainment for Tod Kathin where I took some photos.

Here is the video of  them:

They really seem at home on stage:

The audience enjoyed their performance very much. The only two who seemed a bit tense are the girl's mother (front left) and the boy's father (front right).

I noticed that he mouthed every word the boy sang and the boy glanced at him rather nervously and frequently at the tam boun baan. A typical 'star's parent' I guess. Seeing the little boy having his makeup put on was an odd thing, too. But they both (they are unrelated, apparently, but both come from Phibul Mangsahan in Ubon Province) sang really well. Good to see mor lam performed without 99 dancers in strange headgear, as well. 

 

If you are not familiar with mor lam, you may find the style strange. They are singing in Lao, of course. I hope you enjoy this brief example. 
 

Miss World in Phana: SHOCK RESULT!

What are we to make of this? What will political analysts make of it?

These are the questions being asked here in Phana.

The result of the Miss World contest held in Phana recently came as quite a surprise. The hot favourite was undoubtedly Miss Thailand who certainly looked the part. Here she is again for anyone who needs reminding of her undoubted charms.

 

The comperes took some time to decide who the winner should  be:

 

Well, the winner was ....

 

Miss Lao! and the runner up was Miss Vietnam.

 

Here is the happy winner:

 

 

She certainly seemed happy and appreciative of the honour:

 

No doubt the 'crown' suited her better than the pink shower cap she wore when we first saw her.

Miss World in Phana! Hot! Hot! Hot!

Miss World contest in Phana? It sounds unlikely, but if my eyes did not deceive me the event took place here just last week. Here are the two comperes, just about recognisable as residents of Moo 8.

 

Here come the contestants. First on stage is Miss Vietnam:

 

She is followed by Miss Japan. Both these contestants were well-received by the enthusiastic audience.

 

 

Unfortunately, Miss Lao was not greeted with universal respect. There were several unsavoury comments made about her appearance straight from taking a bath! Some people thought she could have made a bit more effort in the dressing-up department.

 

 

The same could not be said for Miss Thailand. She did the occasion justice by putting on her best outfit and lots of gold jewellery (probably borrowed for the occasion, but that's not to detract from her stunning appearance).

 

But the biggest cheer was reserved for the final contestant, Miss USA. You can see why she was such a hit.

 

And here is the full line-up waiting for the judges' decision:

 

I suppose the result was a foregone conclusion. Who do YOU think is the winner? (Pick the runner-up as well and you could be in for a big prize!) Let me know what you think. Answers in my next post.

Tetsaban Phana: Tod Kathin Procession to Wat Trimit

The Tod Kathin procession from the market place in Ban Phana to Wat Trimit in the amphur was a long  and noisy one. Few people saw it, perhaps, because although the route is a direct one, it doesn't pass many houses. Between Ban Phana and 'the amphur' (as it is always referred to) there is quite a lot of empty space, including the large area where the Tetsaban is currently constructing the new market and bus station.

 

All dressed up and quite a long way to go.

 

Where all the noise came from:

 

For some people, a procession is an easy ride.

 

Others have to put their best foot forward.

 

They have reached the District Office (the amphur).

 

Some people just can't help dancing.

 

Nearly there!

 

When you reach the temple, you then have to walk around the ubosot three times in a clockwise direction.

 

A temple has to have no fewer than five monks in residence to qualify for a Tod Kathin. This one only just made it.

 

What it is all about: presenting the robes.

 

One of the monks must have said they should help themselves:

 

And that really is the last Tod Krathin for this year. But the night before this the Tetsaban arranged 4 hours of entertainment at the market place, so I'll be putting some photos of that in my next posting.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 

 

 

Tetsaban Phana: Tod Kathin 2552 / 2009 Day Two

The second day of the Tod Kathin organised and sponsored by Phana Municipality began very early back at the market place. Nine monks were invited to chant and receive offerings of food there.

 

The mayor's father requested the five precepts and made the formal offering to the monks:

 

 

 

The abbot of Wat Don Kwan sprinkled holy water on people as a blessing.

 

 

 

The monks were requested to accept donations of food and paraphenalia.

 

 

The mayor poured water during their acceptance to transfer merit to the ancestors of Phana.

 

 

Latecomers were not too late to leave a donation.

 

 

And then the procession formed up. They had about 2 kms to walk to Wat Trirat in the amphur area. These two young women always find themselves at the front of Tetsaban Phana parades. It can't be easy keeping in step with each other as they carry the banner between them.